Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Huckleberry


This weekend Elizabeth and I switched hoods, and I found myself in LA.  As I always do when I am visiting another town, I talk to the locals to find the best places to eat.  Per Elizabeth’s suggestion I tried Huckleberry in Santa Monica—what a suggestion it was!  The breakfast menu is full of scrumptious eats.  I LOVE the idea of eggs over quinoa or veggies, but when I saw “Green Eggs & Ham” my mind was made.  I’ve always been intrigued by dishes with catchy names; it didn't just sound nice, it sounded amazing!


When you walk up to the counter, you pass a gold mine of fresh, homemade pastries.  I usually don’t have dessert for breakfast, but when the selection is this good, it’s impossible not to.  One of my favorite foodie friends Katharine joined me on this epicurean endeavor.  She has a keen sweet tooth and often talks me into sweet things. We settled on a peach and blueberry crumble, topped off with whipped cream, which was more than worth the calories.




The crème de la crème came in the form of  “Green Eggs and Ham.”  And here is how it went: two homemade English muffins layered with beautiful prosciutto, fried eggs and drizzled with pesto. All of this was topped with a bright arugula salad that lightened up the whole dish.  It was lovely.  It was perfect.  It was the best breakfast I have ever had.

Katharine has the same trepidation as
Elizabeth about eggs, and opts for scrambled
over fried.  Stay tuned to find out more on
Elizbeth and eggs!

So good in fact that I went back the following morning, and ordered it again. This time with Jack, who ordered the same thing as Katharine (which was the fried egg sandwich).  When it came down to it, what I ultimately loved about Huckleberry was the attention to detail.  Like my favorite restaurants in the Bay Area, it focused on quality and source of ingredients.  It’s a fundamental belief I’ve subscribed to all along, and it makes all the difference.

For anyone who lives in LA, close to LA or plans on visiting LA: do yourself a favor and treat yourself to a trip to Huckleberry.

Happy eating,
Lindsay


Why not try this?

Friday, June 18, 2010

The Man Himself

It’s Thomas Keller Day on Knife and Fork Adventures, and what better way to celebrate him than by cooking up some of his food?  I've been an admirer of the man for some time.  I spent my summers and winter holidays in the Napa Valley with my grandparents as a child, and feel an immediate connection to others who love and understand the valley for what it was and what it has become (whether those others know it or not!).  Anywho, I recently had the pleasure of meeting him twice in one weekend, and if it weren’t for the spectacular wedding that followed our encounters, I’d have to say it was the highlight of my month!


My mother-in-law, Cyndi, saw that Chef Keller would be signing copies of his latest family-style cookbook, ad hoc at home, at their local Williams-Sonoma.  Normally, I’m not in San Diego during the week, but due to the previously mentioned nuptials fabuleux, I was!  Lindsay was unable to get out of work early and hop a flight out of San Francisco, thus, the two of us trekked down there, sans-Linds (although we did snag an extra copy of his book to be signed for her).  


We arrived two hours early thinking the line would be atrocious and were delighted to discover that the line only nears the atrocious-mark when you’re about an hour out from his arrival.  The lovely staff at WS was serving up mini Sprinkles cupcakes and sparkling lemonade which certainly made the anticipation to meet him all the more sweet.

Let me say this: he is a true gentleman.  Not only did Chef Keller show up early to get things rolling, he allegedly stays until every person in line has a signed book.  I didn’t wait around to confirm that rumor, but I’ll take his staff’s word for it.  

Once Cyndi and I had our chance to meet him (I should also mention I have a photo of the two of us with him, but alas, my small camera is broken!), I was astounded to discover how regal his penmanship is; is there anything that man can’t do?  



The next day, we were staying at this grand property for the wedding.  Linds had flown in the night before, and while she was delighted to have a signed copy of his book, she was still bummed she hadn’t had the chance to meet him in person.  We had all gathered in the lobby prior to the rehearsal dinner, and were making our way out to the evening’s party bus, when I spotted a tall man with excellent posture waiting for his car.  I looked. I looked again.  I did a triple take; it was Chef Keller!

First, I grabbed Cyndi who was nearest, and proceeded to loiter hoping Linds would show up before he hopped in his vehicle (I have to interject here- I’m afraid I may have bombarded the poor man.  He looked a little caught off guard. Thomas, if by a shot in hell you are reading this, I'm sorry).  She soon walked out the door and the look of shocked delight on her face was possibly the third best thing to happen in my month of May!

We decided to rejoice in our meeting with celebrated Chef Keller by whipping up some recipes from ad hoc.  Since dear Thomas wrote, “It’s all about family” in every book he signed, I chose to whip up some of his food for my husband’s celebratory birthday dinner with friends a few weeks later.  

(Thank you for being such a good sport, Micaela. The birthday boy and his bestie get F's in the participation department)

The menu consisted of whole roasted chicken on a bed of root vegetables, garlic mashed potatoes (I used his garlic confit oil recipe to roast the garlic), mixed greens with mustard vinaigrette, and strawberry shortcake with buttermilk biscuits. The results were all that I had hoped for: beautiful, simple and delicious. I urge you to immediately go out, buy his wonderful book and whip up something for you and your loved ones. You won't regret it... Promise.

Happy Eating,
Elizabeth

Whole Roasted Chicken on a Bed of Root Vegetables
Serves 4

One 4 to 4 1/2 pound chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
6 garlic cloves smashed, and peeled
6 thyme sprigs
2 large leeks
3 tennis ball-sized rutabagas
2 tennis ball-sized turnips
4 medium carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut in half
1 small yellow onion, trimmed, leaving root end intact, and cut into quarters
8 small (golf-ball-sized) red-skinned potatoes
1/3 cup canola oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature


Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until it comes to room temperature (if you have a day or two prior to cooking, Chef Keller suggests leaving the chicken uncovered in the refrigerator.  It dries the skin out, which helps it crisp when it's roasting.  I tried his method and it looked GORGEOUS when I pulled it out of the oven). Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.


Remove the neck and innards if they are still in the cavity of the chicken.  Use a paring knife, cut out the wishbone from the chicken (this will make it easier to carve later).  Generously season the cavity of the chicken with salt and pepper, add 3 of the garlic cloves and 5 sprigs of thyme, and massage the inside of the bird to infuse it with the flavors.  Truss the chicken. 


Cut off the dark green leaves from the top of the leeks. Trim off and discard any darkened outer layers. Trim the root ends, cutting around them on a 45 degree angle.  Slit the leeks lengthwise, almost in half, starting 1/2 inch above the root ends.  Rinse the leeks well under warm water.  

Cut off both ends of the rutabagas. Stand the rutabagas on end and cut away the skin, working from top to bottom and removing any tough outer layers. Cut into 3/4-inch wedges. Repeat with the turnips, cutting the wedges to match the size of the rutabagas. 


Combine all the vegetables and the remaining garlic cloves and thyme sprig in a large bowl.  Toss with 1/4 cup of the oil and and season with salt and pepper.  Spread the vegetables in a large cast-iron skillet or roasting pan.  


Rub the remaining oil all over the chicken.  Season generously with salt and pepper.


Make a nest in the center of the vegetables and nestle the chicken in it.  Cut the butter into 4 or 5 pieces and place over the chicken breast.




 Put the chicken in the oven and roast for 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and roast for an additional 45 minutes, or until the thermometer registers 160 degrees in the meatiest portions of the bird- the thighs and under the breast where the thigh meets the breast- and the juices run clear. If necessary, return the bird to the oven for more roasting, checking every 5 minutes.   
 


Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let rest for 20 minutes. (I should mention here that I forgot to take a picture of the chicken after I pulled it out of the oven.  I am still kicking myself). 

Just before serving, set the pan of vegetables over medium heat and reheat the vegetables, turning them and glazing them with the pan juices.  Cut the chicken into serving pieces, arrange over the vegetables, and serve.

(This photo really doesn't do the deliciousness of this chicken justice)

Buttermilk Biscuits*
Makes 12 biscuits

2 cups cake flour
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and chilled
1 1/2 cups buttermilk, plus 1 to 2 Tablespoons for brushing
2 to 3 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine the flours, salt, baking powder and baking soda in the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times, until the pieces of the butter are no bigger than small peas.  Do not overprocess; the dough should not come together.

Transfer the dough to a large bowl and make a well in the center of the flour mixture.  Pour in the buttermilk.  

(Did I do this correctly, Chef?)

Stir and lift the mixture with a sturdy spoon, gently working the flour into the buttermilk.  The dough should begin to come together but not form a solid mass, or the biscuits may be tough.  

 
Dust a work surface with flour and turn out the dough.  Pat the dough into a 3/4-inch-thick rectangle.  Using a 2 1/2 inch round cutter, cut out the biscuits (if the cutter sticks to the dough, dip it in flour before cutting).  Place the biscuits on the baking sheet.  The dough trimmings can be gently pushed together, patted out, and cut one more time; do not overwork the dough. 


Brush the tops of the biscuits lightly with buttermilk.  Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking, until a rich golden brown.  As soon as you remove the biscuits from the oven, brush the tops with melted butter.  Serve warm.  


* I used this buttermilk biscuit recipe for the strawberry shortcakes I made later in the evening.  To get the strawberry shortcake recipe, as well as those for the garlic confit, mashed potatoes and mustard vinaigrette, please purchase a copy of ad hoc at home.  

 

Happy Thomas Keller Day!


Often I let my mind wander decades into the future…  What will I name my first-born? When driving through well-to-do neighborhoods, I see a beautiful home and think to myself, “that will do.”  All of these notions about my future life frequently change.  There is one thing I’m fairly certain of though, and that is that I will retire somewhere in the Napa Valley.

I once overheard someone say that per capita, Napa Valley has the most Michelin stars than any other place in the world… pretty groovy. There are a plethora of tremendous restaurants run by some of the world’s most renowned chefs. But of them all, for me one name in particular stands out above the others: Thomas Keller. 

As E previously mention, I recently had a chance run-in with the guy... and what a gentleman he is!  For someone who has accomplished so much, he was incredibly humble and down-to-earth. Although I received a signed copy of Ad Hoc, I was still bummed I didn't get to meet him in person.  It truly must have been fate that I bumped in to him at The Grand Hotel. I'm pretty sure I blushed and grinned like a school girl when I saw him, but he didn't seem to notice.  He was engaging and lovely. Upon telling him that I recently dined at Ad Hoc, he dove into a series of questions. What did we eat?  Wedge salad, tenderloin of beef, and an espresso panna cotta!  How did we like it?  Everything was perfectly cooked and seasoned... excellent! Was the service up to par?  Above and beyond!

Looking through the Ad Hoc cookbook literally forces you into hunger. The photography is beautiful and showcases each recipe wonderfully. The recipes are approachable and reflect the theme of family and home.  This made it pretty hard to settle on something to cook.  But when I saw the Maine Lobster Rolls, I remembered what my parents said this past fall when they returned from a truly epicurean vacation to New England: one of the best things they ate the whole trip were the lobster rolls. The deal was done; I had to try it. Tommy's version was absolutely delicious. The mayonnaise dressing was cut with lime juice and plenty of herbs, so it was not too heavy. 

Living in California, I quickly realized the New-England-style buns are difficult to find.  I found La Boulange’s brioche hot dog buns, unsliced, at Whole Foods work perfectly for this recipe. If you can’t find them, top slit buns or regular hot dog buns are perfectly acceptable (just make sure to brown the sides).

Another note is the size of the lobster meat: Tommy recommends to leave the chunks of lobster large, ¾ inch or so. This is to appreciate its texture and give a juicy, luxurious feel (which is why I love the guy so much!). For this quantity of lobster meat, you will need five 1 ¼ pound lobsters. Lobsters that have grown too big are not as tender.  Even going to a high-end grocery store, I was unable to find whole Maine lobster. I had to use lobster tails, which I was worried about, but the results were just as great.

Per his suggestion, we made corn on the cob with lime salt to eat with the lobster rolls. The extra lime salt is definitely worth keeping (try it on popcorn!). We enjoyed these in the backyard in the warmth of the early evening sun.  Meeting him or not, I hope your experience with this meal was as good as mine.

Happy eating,
Lindsay



Maine Lobster Rolls
Serves 4 to 6

1 ½ pounds (about 4 cups) cooked lobster
3 to 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons minced red onion
2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled celery
2 teaspoons finely chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
½ lime
6 New England-style (top-split) hot dog buns or other hot dog buns, preferably unsliced
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 celery stalk
1 head butter lettuce, leaves separated, rinsed, dried, and torn into pieces
Pickled Red Onions (optional)

Put the lobster meat in a large bowl, add the mayonnaise, and stir gently to coat.  Add the onion, celery, tarragon, parsley, chives, and salt and pepper to taste and stir gently to mix. Squeeze the lime over the salad and fold in the juice. Cover and refrigerate.

If using top-split buns, brush butter on both outer sides of each bun. If using unsliced buns, split them open from the top, then trim each long side to create a flat surface and brush with melted butter. If using regular hot dog buns, open the buns and brush with butter. Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat. Just before serving, put the rolls in the pan and brown the buttered sides.

To serve, peel the strings from the celery with a vegetable peeler. Using a Japanese mandoline or other vegetable slicer, or a sharp knife, slice the celery lengthwise into thin ribbons. Line each bun with a couple of small pieces of lettuce. Mound the lobster salad in the buns and garnish with the celery.

To cook the lobster…

Fill a large pot with water, and bring to a boil. Cook 1 or 2 lobsters at a time. Add the lobsters headfirst and cover the pot to return the liquid to a gentle boil, then remove the lid and boil for 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let the lobster(s) steep for 10 minutes.

Transfer the lobster(s) to a tray to cool for 15 minutes. Remove the meat from the shells: Working over the tray, twist off and remove the tail from each lobster body. Then twist and pull off each of the claws.

To remove the tail meat…

Hold each tail flat, back shell facing up, and using a sharp chefs knife, cut lengthwise in half.  With a pair of tweezers, pull out and discard the vein that runs the length of the tail.  Cut the tail meat into pieces about ¾” in size.  If there is any roe (bright red coral), it can be finely chopped and added to the lobster salad.

To remove knuckle and claw meat…

Twist off each knuckle from the claw. Hold the claw in your hand and pull down to loosen the lower pincher. Then, push it to either side to crack it and pull it straight off. Still holding the claw, crack the top of the shell with the heel of a knife, about ¾ inch from the joint where the knuckle was attached, and wiggle your knife to loosen and crack open the shell. Shake the claw to remove the meat.

Cut off top joint, the one that was attached to the body, of each knuckle. Use scissors to cut open the shell along the smooth outside edge of each knuckle. Pry open the shell and remove the meat. Cover all lobster meat and refrigerate until completely chilled.

To remove leg meat…

Pull of the legs from the cooked lobster. Cut off the wider end of each leg. Lay the legs down on the counter, with the pincers facing you. Using a rolling pin, roll from the pincers toward the cut end: the pressure will cause a strand of lobster meat, “spaghetti,” to emerge from each leg.

*For more information of the anatomy of a lobster visit this site. The knuckle is the part of the lobster that connects the claw to the body.




Corn on the Cob with Lime Salt
Serves 6

6 ears supersweet white or yellow corn, shucked
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces, at room temperature
Lime Salt (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

Cut both ends of each ear of corn, and cut the ears in half.

Bring a large pot of well-seasoned water to a boil. Add the corn and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the corn in tender.

Meanwhile, transfer about 2 tablespoons of cooking water to a large wide heatproof bowl. Add the butter and swirl the bowl over the heat to emulsify. Add the lime salt to taste, swirling the bowl to maintain the heat emulsification. Set aside in a warm spot.

Drain the corn well and add to the butter. Sprinkle in the chives. Swirl the bowl to coat the corn evenly. Sprinkle with additional lime salt, and serve the remaining salt on the side.


Thanks for the Christmas gift E!


Lime Salt
Makes ¼ cup

¼ cup Maldon sea salt or fleur de sel
Grated zest of 1 lime (use a Micropane)

Put the salt and lime zest in a small jar. Put on the lid, and shake to combine.  Extra salt can be stored in the freezer.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Keen on Peaches


Walking with my fingers wrapped around a warm cup of coffee, snacking on a perfectly rich scone from Arizmendi, sampling nibbles of fruits, cheeses and oils from the various purveyors… ahhh, I love the farmer’s market.  It’s easily my favorite weekend activity, and usually a priority on Sunday mornings.  I love perusing the fresh fare from different local farms.  I even love going just to look. But most importantly, I go to the farmer’s market to be inspired.


 The other morning my friend Kelsey and I went to our local farmer’s market to pick up food for the week.  Upon tasting a perfectly ripe peach, we had the "ah-ha!" moment I was waiting for.  I thought that peaches for breakfast on a warm summer morning sounded ideal.  I ran the idea by Kelsey, she mentioned her granola... and the rest was history.  Beginning our day with this was so fantastic, I thought it necessary to share it with you all.

It's obviously the warm weather, but when it's summer time I find any excuse to use the grill.  Move over meat...  why not grill peaches?  As used in this recipe, they are wonderful for breakfast, but they also stand out on fresh summer salads or for dessert with a plate of artisan cheeses; these stone fruit add depth to any dish. 

I like to use Greek yogurt for its rich texture. I think it stands up better to the warm fruit than other types. I found that when using regular yogurt, it becomes soupy when poured over the peaches.


After compiling the fruit, granola and yogurt, there will be extra granola, which is one of the best parts! Save the leftovers for breakfast or as a snack during the week. I love this granola because it is relatively light—there are only 2 tablespoons of oil. Although it has cranberries and cranberry juice, it does not overpower it in flavor. You can absolutely use golden raisins, cherries or another dried fruit in place of the cranberries. Also, the color and flavor in this granola makes it a great, festive treat around the holidays.

Happy Eating,
Lindsay


Grilled Peaches with Honeyed Yogurt and Granola

2 ripe white or yellow peaches
Nonstick cooking spray
1 heaping cup of plain Greek yogurt
1-2 teaspoons honey
2 handfuls of Kelsey’s Granola (recipe follows)

Begin by making sure the grill is clean. Spray the grill with nonstick spray and prepare the barbeque to medium-high heat. Meanwhile, cut each peach in half, remove the pits and set aside.*  

In a small bowl combine yogurt and honey to taste; mix well.


Place the peaches on the grill cut side down. Cook until grill marks show and fruit is heated through, about 5 minutes.


Place two peach halves on each plate. Divide the yogurt mixture between the peaches, spooning it in the well of the peaches and letting it flow over the sides. Sprinkle a handful of granola over the yogurt on each plate. Serve immediately.

*If the pits are too difficult to remove, leave them in the peaches. They will come loose as the heat on the grill. Remove after cooked.


Kelsey’s Granola
Ingredients

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
2 cups old-fashioned oats
1/3 cup slivered almonds
1/3 cup sweetened flaked coconut
1/3 cup pecan halves
1/3 cup frozen concentrated cranberry juice cocktail, thawed
1/3 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 cup dried sweetened cranberries

Preheat oven to 325°F. Spray a heavy large rimmed baking sheet with nonstick spray. Combine oats, almonds, coconut, and pecans in a large bowl. Combine cranberry juice concentrate, brown sugar, oil, cinnamon, and allspice in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to boil, whisking until sugar dissolves. Pour hot syrup over oat mixture; stir to coat evenly.


Spread mixture out on prepared sheet. Bake until golden brown at edges, about 20 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven. Add cranberries to the oats in the pan; using metal spatula, stir to blend. Return to over, and bake until granola is golden and beginning to dry, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes longer. Let granola cool completely on baking sheet. Store airtight at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Guilty Dog Biscuits

Meet my dog, Moe Sutherland.


Aside from being the best dog in existence (I realize this statement is up for debate with virtually every good dog owner out there), he truly is one of the great loves of my life.  



Kyle and I adopted him a year and a half ago from this lovely dog rescue.  When he was around 3 months old, he was discovered wandering in an alley by an awesome couple.  His ears had been cut off with a pair of scissors by his previous evil owner; he was hungry and scared. Unfortunately for that couple (but fortunately for us), they already had two dogs and were expecting a baby, thus they had to give him up for adoption.  He was fostered by them for four months before we found him on the rescue’s website, and the rest, my friends, is history.

For all of you who are dubious about pit breeds, let me say my dog is honestly one of the sweetest creatures you will ever meet.  My mother-in-law is not a dog fan, and even she loves him (my in-laws’ cat, Pumpkin, is another story).


 
Oh sure, we’ve had our ups and downs since making our coupling three’s a crowd.  There were the first six months, which I like to refer to as “Separation Anxiety Hell.” This period included expensive training sessions, relying on our friends for occasional day-sitting, and a run-in with a horrendous 10 hour dog-watcher for our wedding. Also, there were some gastrointestinal issues, something that’s apparently common in pit bull, American bulldog and boxer breeds, all three of which we suspect Moe is a combination of, which left us purchasing a ridiculous amount of pumpkin puree (a tried and tested antidote for hideous canine flatulence, it turns out).  However, we’ve made it through to the other side and Moe can now be left alone, and no longer clears a room on a minute to minute basis.

Recently, things at work have been incredibly stressful, not to mention time consuming.  Our hour-long morning walks have been reduced greatly and the remorse I’ve been feeling has been immense.  Truly, doesn’t this face just scream, “why aren’t we walking right now?!?”



I needed to assuage my guilt somehow, thus I decided to whip up some dog biscuits!  I discovered this recipe on this website, beyond a doubt one of the best resources of dog treats I’ve found.  Also, saying “Bullwrinkle” makes me laugh.  Out loud. 

I’ve made this particular recipe before, and not only is it Moe approved, his best friends (Tooey, Bogie and Humphrey) agree.  



So whip up a batch for your four-legged love; I promise they’ll thank you for it (most likely in kisses and drools).

Happy feeding,
Elizabeth



Fido’s Favorite Treats
From Bullwrinkle.com

1 cup rolled oats  

1/3 cup butter
1 cup boiling chicken broth
3/4 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons chicken or beef instant bouillon
1/2 cup milk
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 egg, beaten
2 cups whole wheat flour

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease cookie sheets. In large bowl combine rolled oats, butter and boiling broth; let stand for 10 minutes. Stir in cornmeal, sugar, bouillon, milk, cheese and egg. Mix well. Add flour 1 cup at a time, mixing well after each addition to form stiff dough. 


 
On floured surface, knead in remaining flour until dough is smooth and no longer sticky, 3 to 4 minutes. Roll or pat out dough to 1/2 inch thickness; cut with cookie cutters*. 



Place cookies 1 inch apart on baking sheet. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until golden brown. Cool completely. Store loosely covered for up to a week**. Makes approximately 42 biscuits. 


 
* These cookie cutters are excellent for traditionally shaped dog biscuits, but any cookie cutter shape will do!  Moe handed these out to his dog friends around Thanksgiving, and they were shaped like turkeys, Pilgrim hats and pumpkins. You could even use a knife to cut shapes if you're hard up for cutters.

 ** These biscuits are softer than the hard, crunchy treats you're used to buying at the store.  They also go bad more quickly, as they do not have any preservatives.  They'll last for two weeks if you store them in the fridge.
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